Outside of working in kitchens to pay my way through college, I would say that my interest in food justice began in 2010, when I attended the Place Matters Conference. During this event, I, along with a cohort from New Orleans, held mock-lobbying sessions with Congressmen about the need for more fresh foods in New Orleans, given that this lack was contributing to weak health outcomes in marginalized communities. Though I learned a lot from this experience, what it taught me was that policymaking and advocacy was not enough, and a more coordinated approach was necessary to tackle this structural issue.
Having been born in the Democratic Republic of Congo, and having traveled extensively across the Continent for work, I have seen how, despite extreme poverty levels, fresh fruit and vegetables are seemingly more available, though not necessarily affordable for local populations. In more developed contexts, government intervention and local preference, have led to the maintenance of access to fresh foods, further improving health outcomes and livelihoods.
It goes without saying that New Orleans is one of the most food insecure cities in the country. As it stands, according to the most recent data 15% of the New Orleans population is currently food insecure. More so, 20% of the New Orleans population is noted to receive SNAP benefits, the federal program providing food benefits to low-income families. Further, 14% of seniors in the city are food insecure, the highest rate in any metro area in the country, indicating the impact of this issue on more vulnerable populations. As food prices rise, the prognosis for this issue is likely to get worse.
Structurally, what this looks like on the ground, is that corner stores outnumber supermarkets 10 to 1, creating a number of food deserts. Naturally, this is an issue given that supermarkets are more likely to provide access to fresh foods and vegetables. Definitions vary, but the USDA defines urban food deserts as low-income Census tracts further than one mile away from a supermarket. Though dated, in 2010 it was reported that 16.4% of New Orleanians lived in food deserts. Living in food deserts is linked to a number of negative health outcomes including obesity, high body mass index, and cardiovascular issues. In short, place does matter, and the neighborhood you live in, particularly in an insular city like New Orleans, may well impact your life outcomes.
The above being said, globally, there are models that the Crescent City could follow. The city of Paris, France, has developed a four “theme” solution to its food security issues. Central to this is the first theme focused on increasing sustainable access to food for all through a network of small food stores in “priority communities.” The second and third themes are centered around the development of support systems for the food supply chain, as well as the reduction of food waste, with a particular focus on waste coming from major events. Finally, and most pertinently, the fourth pillar is intended to educate the public and create awareness with regards to the issue. Culturally, it goes without saying, that within Paris and Europe more broadly, there is a strong preference for fresh foods and less inclination to consume processed foods than there is in the U.S.
At the core of this issue is poverty. The irony is that in a city known for its vibrant food culture, which is highly dependent on fresh foods, many (22%) of the city’s residents, who live beneath the poverty level can’t afford it. It goes without saying that there are a number of non-profits in New Orleans doing work similar to the first three themes in the Paris framework. My belief is that, as it stands, the crux of the issue in New Orleans may be the fourth. That access to fresh food needs to be seen as a fundamental human right, not just in an effort to improve health outcomes, but also for preservation of local culture. This is particularly the case in the wake of a looming climate crisis, wherein access to fresh goods will likely be compromised.
From poverty, to the lack of supermarkets, to food waste and lack of awareness, tackling the food insecurity issue will require a number of levers. That being said, all too often, folks look to solve problems in silos. The problem being that structural issues are embedded within our communities in numerous ways. Building coalitions and groups of organizations committed to tackling issues in a coordinated manner, is the only means by which they can be managed.
I have seen this done myself in the criminal justice policy space, where the New Orleans jail population has considerably declined due to a more coordinated approach. More often than not, it takes a calamity or catastrophe to push groups to see problems within ecosystems this way, but the hope is that a more proactive group of folks will arise to seize the day.
